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Esoteric Jewelry

Rare Japan Shakudo Snake Ring 14 Karat Gold Antique Victorian Samurai circa 1870
Rare Japan Shakudo Snake Ring 14 Karat Gold Antique Victorian Samurai circa 1870

Rare Japan Shakudo Snake Ring 14 Karat Gold Antique Victorian Samurai circa 1870

Located in New York, NY

Her store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. Her son, Barry Weber said "we are fearless in our taste," always search...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Japanese Aesthetic Movement Cocktail Rings

Materials

14k Gold, Mixed Metal, Gold, Shakudo

Vintage 18K Pisces Zodiac Medallion – Hand-Carved Twin Fish Symbol
Vintage 18K Pisces Zodiac Medallion – Hand-Carved Twin Fish Symbol

Vintage 18K Pisces Zodiac Medallion – Hand-Carved Twin Fish Symbol

Located in Miami, FL

Perfect for anyone born between February 19 – March 20 or collectors of esoteric and celestial jewelry. Its warm patina, handcrafted texture, and symbolic depth make this pendant a m...

Category

Vintage 1970s Pendant Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold

Recent Sales

Rare Georgian Amethyst Rose Cut Diamond Ring 1700s Gold Museum Quality
Rare Georgian Amethyst Rose Cut Diamond Ring 1700s Gold Museum Quality

Rare Georgian Amethyst Rose Cut Diamond Ring 1700s Gold Museum Quality

Located in New York, NY

Her store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. Her son, Barry Weber said "we are fearless in our taste," always search...

Category

Antique 18th Century Unknown Georgian Bridal Rings

Materials

Diamond, Amethyst, 18k Gold

Rare Georgian Crowned Garnet Rose Cut Diamond Ring 1700s Gold Museum Quality
Rare Georgian Crowned Garnet Rose Cut Diamond Ring 1700s Gold Museum Quality

Rare Georgian Crowned Garnet Rose Cut Diamond Ring 1700s Gold Museum Quality

Located in New York, NY

Her store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. Her son, Barry Weber said "we are fearless in our taste," always search...

Category

Antique 18th Century Unknown Georgian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Garnet, Diamond, Gold

Rare Georgian Garnet Crowned Double Heart Ring 1700s Gold Museum Quality
Rare Georgian Garnet Crowned Double Heart Ring 1700s Gold Museum Quality

Rare Georgian Garnet Crowned Double Heart Ring 1700s Gold Museum Quality

Located in New York, NY

Her store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. Her son, Barry Weber said "we are fearless in our taste," always search...

Category

Antique 18th Century Unknown Georgian Bridal Rings

Materials

Garnet, 10k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold

Rare Japan Shakudo Ring Woman Musician 14 Karat Gold Antique Victorian, 1870
Rare Japan Shakudo Ring Woman Musician 14 Karat Gold Antique Victorian, 1870

Rare Japan Shakudo Ring Woman Musician 14 Karat Gold Antique Victorian, 1870

Located in New York, NY

Her store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. Her son, Barry Weber said "we are fearless in our taste," always search...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Japanese Aesthetic Movement Cocktail Rings

Materials

14k Gold, Mixed Metal

Cherub Locket Pendant 19th Century French Black Dot Paste Silver En Grisaille
Cherub Locket Pendant 19th Century French Black Dot Paste Silver En Grisaille

Cherub Locket Pendant 19th Century French Black Dot Paste Silver En Grisaille

Located in New York, NY

Her store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. Her son, Barry Weber said "we are fearless in our taste," always search...

Category

Antique 19th Century French Napoleon III Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Sterling Silver

EGYPTIAN REVIVAL 1860 Enameled Ring In 14Kt Yellow Gold With Diamonds
EGYPTIAN REVIVAL 1860 Enameled Ring In 14Kt Yellow Gold With Diamonds

EGYPTIAN REVIVAL 1860 Enameled Ring In 14Kt Yellow Gold With Diamonds

Located in Miami, FL

Their store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. Collateral: This ring is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.

Category

Antique 1860s French Egyptian Revival Signet Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Emerald Snake Cuff Bracelet Victorian Style White Diamond
Emerald Snake Cuff Bracelet Victorian Style White Diamond

Emerald Snake Cuff Bracelet Victorian Style White Diamond

By J DAUPHIN

Located in Los Angeles, CA

Emerald and White Diamond Snake Cuff Bracelet – J Dauphin The Emerald and White Diamond Snake Cuff Bracelet by J DAUPHIN draws on the historic use of serpent motifs in Victorian jew...

Category

2010s Indian Contemporary Bangles

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass

Emerald Snake Cuff Bracelet Victorian Style White Diamond
Emerald Snake Cuff Bracelet Victorian Style White Diamond

Emerald Snake Cuff Bracelet Victorian Style White Diamond

By J DAUPHIN

Located in Los Angeles, CA

Emerald and White Diamond Snake Cuff Bracelet – J Dauphin The Emerald and White Diamond Snake Cuff Bracelet by J DAUPHIN draws on the historic use of serpent motifs in Victorian jew...

Category

2010s Indian Contemporary Bangles

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass

Exotic Victorian Gutta Percha Chandelier Earrings
Exotic Victorian Gutta Percha Chandelier Earrings

Exotic Victorian Gutta Percha Chandelier Earrings

By Glorious Antique Jewelry Collection

Located in Stamford, CT

Derived from the sap of the Malaysian Gutta Percha tree, It was one of the alternative materials admired for its stark sculptural forms and dark brown color. Do consider that jewelry...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Chandelier Earrings

Materials

15k Gold

19th Century Egyptian Revival Enamel and Diamond Ring
19th Century Egyptian Revival Enamel and Diamond Ring

19th Century Egyptian Revival Enamel and Diamond Ring

Located in CA, CA

Their store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. US size 3, UK size F, European 43 1.4 cm diameter 1.9 cm deep 0.4 cm...

Category

Antique 1890s French Egyptian Revival Signet Rings

Materials

Diamond, 9k Gold

Antique Rose-Cut Diamond, Gold and Black Enamel Navette Ring
Antique Rose-Cut Diamond, Gold and Black Enamel Navette Ring

Antique Rose-Cut Diamond, Gold and Black Enamel Navette Ring

Located in CA, CA

Their store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. French hallmark. 2.5 cm L x 1.4 cm W 2.5 cm D.

Category

Antique Early 19th Century French Early Victorian More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Gold

Pre-Raphaelite Enamel and Diamond Ring Depicting a Viking Maiden
Pre-Raphaelite Enamel and Diamond Ring Depicting a Viking Maiden

Pre-Raphaelite Enamel and Diamond Ring Depicting a Viking Maiden

Located in CA, CA

Their store at The Carlyle was described as a historical jewel box with esoteric jewelry spanning the centuries. Stamped. 1cm wide x 1.5 cm length 1.8 cm deep 0.3 cm mount excluding ...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century American Pre-Raphaelite Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, 14k Gold

Long Victorian Gold and Vulcanite Chain
Long Victorian Gold and Vulcanite Chain

Long Victorian Gold and Vulcanite Chain

Located in Stamford, CT

In the Victorian era, jewelry of esoteric material reflected admiration and appreciation of nature and was prized and desirable.

Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Link Necklaces

Materials

15k Gold

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Victorian Snake Ring Garnet Eyes Three Dimensional Gold Antique Circa 1860
Victorian Snake Ring Garnet Eyes Three Dimensional Gold Antique Circa 1860

Victorian Snake Ring Garnet Eyes Three Dimensional Gold Antique Circa 1860

Located in New York, NY

Indulge in a rare and wonderful antique Victorian Snake Ring with two Bohemian Garnet Eyes in 10 Karat Gold. The stunning fully modeled three dimensional snake is depicted coiled ar...

Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Fashion Rings

Materials

Garnet, Gold, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Pisces Zodiac Fish Medallion Yellow Gold Medallion Pendant
Van Cleef & Arpels Pisces Zodiac Fish Medallion Yellow Gold Medallion Pendant

Van Cleef & Arpels Pisces Zodiac Fish Medallion Yellow Gold Medallion Pendant

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Fairfax, VA

Description: An elegant Van Cleef & Arpels Pisces Zodiac medallion pendant, beautifully crafted in solid 18K yellow gold. This refined piece features the Maison’s detailed fish m...

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2010s French Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

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Antique Victorian Yellow Gold Snake Cocktail  Ring
Antique Victorian Yellow Gold Snake Cocktail  Ring

Antique Victorian Yellow Gold Snake Cocktail Ring

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

An exceptional, fine and impressive English antique Victorian 18 karat yellow gold snake ring; part of our diverse antique jewelry and estate jewelry collections. This exceptional, ...

Category

Antique 1890s British Victorian Engagement Rings

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Snake Ring 18 Karat Gold Enamel Flexible Estate Fine Jewelry Scales
Vintage Snake Ring 18 Karat Gold Enamel Flexible Estate Fine Jewelry Scales

Vintage Snake Ring 18 Karat Gold Enamel Flexible Estate Fine Jewelry Scales

Located in Torrance, CA

Distinct & stylish vintage snake ring (circa 1960s to 1970s), crafted in 18 karat yellow gold. The snake features lifelike detail with conjoined scales that move and allow flexibil...

Category

Mid-20th Century Unknown Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 18K Gold Enamel Fish Pisces Zodiac Charm Pendant
Vintage 18K Gold Enamel Fish Pisces Zodiac Charm Pendant

Vintage 18K Gold Enamel Fish Pisces Zodiac Charm Pendant

Located in Rotterdam, NL

A vintage Italian gold fish charm pendant created with a blue enameled body. The fish is beautifully detailed and created with a great royal blue scaly skin. Designed in 18 karat yel...

Category

Mid-20th Century Italian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold, Enamel

1970s Jean Mahie Gold Pisces Pendant Necklace
1970s Jean Mahie Gold Pisces Pendant Necklace

1970s Jean Mahie Gold Pisces Pendant Necklace

By Jean Mahie

Located in New York, NY

A 22 karat yellow gold necklace, Jean Mahie. Retailed by Cartier.  Circa 1970.   Designed as a length of Cadene 15 chain suspending a medallion depicting horological sign Pisces. Le...

Category

Vintage 1970s Pendant Necklaces

9ct Gold, Large Articulated Lucky Fish Pendant Charm, Hallmarked Birmingham 1977
9ct Gold, Large Articulated Lucky Fish Pendant Charm, Hallmarked Birmingham 1977

9ct Gold, Large Articulated Lucky Fish Pendant Charm, Hallmarked Birmingham 1977

Located in Brighton, GB

Lucky Fish Pendant 9ct Gold Hallmarked Birmingham 1977 *THE CHAIN IS SOLD SEPARATELY Dive into elegance with our stunning vintage 9ct gold lucky fish pendant, a striking piece t...

Category

Late 20th Century English Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 9k Gold

Georges L'Enfant for Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Pisces Zodiac Vintage Gold Pendant
Georges L'Enfant for Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Pisces Zodiac Vintage Gold Pendant

Georges L'Enfant for Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Pisces Zodiac Vintage Gold Pendant

By Georges L'Enfant

Located in Greenwich, CT

The Pisces zodiac symbol are fish which are known to swim upstream, against the current, showing great strength and stamina. This extra large and powerful Georges L'Enfant for Van Cl...

Category

Vintage 1970s French Modernist Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold

Antique 14K Gold Snake Ring with Ruby, Art Nouveau, Circa 1890s
Antique 14K Gold Snake Ring with Ruby, Art Nouveau, Circa 1890s

Antique 14K Gold Snake Ring with Ruby, Art Nouveau, Circa 1890s

Located in Malmö, Skåne län

An 1890s 14K gold snake ring adorned with a 3,4 x3,8 mm faceted oval ruby. Size us 6,5. Weight 3,1 grams Health, wisdom, eternity, everlasting love or venomous prowess? The serpe...

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Antique 1890s European Art Nouveau Fashion Rings

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold

18k solid gold animal charm - articulated fish pendant
18k solid gold animal charm - articulated fish pendant

18k solid gold animal charm - articulated fish pendant

Located in Antwerp, BE

This funky articulated fish pendant is crafted in 18 karat yellow gold. This wonderful charm pendant is detailed with many wonderful engravings. This fish has two sides, one without ...

Category

Late 20th Century Italian Retro Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Large Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Articulated Lucky Fish Charm Pendant
Large Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Articulated Lucky Fish Charm Pendant

Large Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Articulated Lucky Fish Charm Pendant

Located in London, GB

A very large vintage 18 karat (18K) yellow gold good luck charm pendant designed as a lucky articulated fish with a flexible tail and body and enamel eyes. Unmarked but tested for 18...

Category

Vintage 1950s Italian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Pisces Diamond & 18k Yellow Gold Pendant - Italy
Vintage Pisces Diamond & 18k Yellow Gold Pendant - Italy

Vintage Pisces Diamond & 18k Yellow Gold Pendant - Italy

Located in Orlando, FL

Vintage 1980s 18K Gold Pisces Zodiac Pendant – Italian Made, Diamond Accents A charming vintage zodiac pendant from the 1980s, this Pisces design is crafted in rich 18k yellow gold ...

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Vintage 1980s Italian Pendant Necklaces

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Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Victorian 10K Gold, Garnet, and Diamond Figural Snake Band Ring
Antique Victorian 10K Gold, Garnet, and Diamond Figural Snake Band Ring

Antique Victorian 10K Gold, Garnet, and Diamond Figural Snake Band Ring

Located in Philadelphia, PA

A fine antique Victorian gold, garnet, and diamond ring. In 10 karat yellow gold. In the form of a coiled snake. The snake with a flush-set garnet to its forehead and two flush-se...

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Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, 10k Gold

Antique Snake Serpent Ring Diamonds solid 18K Gold Ø US6 / 8.3gr
Antique Snake Serpent Ring Diamonds solid 18K Gold Ø US6 / 8.3gr

Antique Snake Serpent Ring Diamonds solid 18K Gold Ø US6 / 8.3gr

Located in SE

Antique Serpent Ring ca. late 19th - early 20 century in solid 18K Yellow Gold.Coiled body with engraved scales, the head decorated with two natural old mine cut Diamonds Ø 2.25ct / ...

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Antique Early 1900s European Art Nouveau Cluster Rings

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Diamond, 18k Gold

Snake Ring Gold Serpent Double Head Enamel Eyes Adjustable Wrap Vintage
Snake Ring Gold Serpent Double Head Enamel Eyes Adjustable Wrap Vintage

Snake Ring Gold Serpent Double Head Enamel Eyes Adjustable Wrap Vintage

By J DAUPHIN

Located in Los Angeles, CA

Snake Ring Gold Serpent Double Head Enamel Eyes Adjustable Wrap Vintage Designer: J DAUPHIN Gold snake ring in gold plated brass, a one of a kind vintage 2008 serpent ring by J Dau...

Category

Early 2000s French Modern Fashion Rings

Materials

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Vintage 18k Yellow Gold Snake Ring with Enamel
Vintage 18k Yellow Gold Snake Ring with Enamel

Vintage 18k Yellow Gold Snake Ring with Enamel

Located in Berlin, BE

Snake Ring in 18k Yellow Gold Vintage piece featuring enamel detailing, crafted in 18k yellow gold. Total weight: 4.8 g.

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20th Century French Aesthetic Movement Fashion Rings

Materials

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Sterling Silver "Frog" Ring with a Black Diamond Eyes
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By Gregory Mikaelian & Sons, Inc.

Located in Los Angeles, CA

Sterling Silver "Frog" ring with a black diamond eyes, containing 2 round black diamonds weighing .07pts. ring size is 7 and can be size to fit for free.

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2010s American Artisan Fashion Rings

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By Gregory Mikaelian & Sons, Inc.

Located in Los Angeles, CA

14 karat yellow gold Green Sapphire yellow diamond halo ring, containing 1 oval green sapphire of gem quality weighing 1.54cts. and 10 round full cut yellow diamonds of very fine qu...

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2010s American Contemporary Fashion Rings

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Moschino vintage black heart bag
Moschino vintage black heart bag

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By Moschino

Located in CAPELLE AAN DEN IJSSEL, ZH

Moschino 90’s Vintage black leather Heart bag. Designed by Franco Moschino. Vintage Condition; 7/10 Made in Italy. Height-7 Depth- 3" Width- 9" Handle Drop- 3.5"

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1990s Top Handle Bags

Alexander McQueen S/S 2005 Unworn Semi-Sheer Lace Ruffled Slip Dress
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By Alexander McQueen

Located in Englishtown, NJ

Alexander McQueen S/S 2005 "It's Only A Game" Unworn Semi-Sheer Lace Ruffled Slip Dress IT 44

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Early 2000s Evening Dresses and Gowns

Gianni Versace Backless Silk Dress with Leather Trim
Gianni Versace Backless Silk Dress with Leather Trim

Gianni Versace Backless Silk Dress with Leather Trim

By Gianni Versace Couture, Gianni Versace

Located in Water Mill, NY

A gorgeous full length black silk gown from Gianni Versace Couture. It has a front scoop neck, a deep cut out back and fabulous tan leather shoulders. It is semi fitted though the ...

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Prada Fairy Runway Black Printed Silk Dress Runway Spring 2008

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By Prada

Located in Boca Raton, FL

Italian luxury brand Prada has made a mark with their refined styles and classic reinventions. However, the namesake designer Miuccia Prada is no stranger to considering creative twi...

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Alexander McQueen Gown The Cosmic Rain Dress  Embroidery Corset
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Alexander McQueen Gown The Cosmic Rain Dress Embroidery Corset

By Alexander McQueen

Located in Berlin, BE

Breathtaking Alexander Mcqueen Corset Gown. Cosmic rain, comet and astral crystal embroideries are hand-sewn to this stunnig evening gown. Powder blue Paris net bustier dress featuri...

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Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti 18 Karat Yellow Gold Serpent Coil Snake Band Ring
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By Tiffany & Co.

Located in Baltimore, MD

Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti 18 Karat Yellow Gold Serpent Coil Snake Band Ring Metal: 18k yellow gold Weight: 6.35 grams Size: 7.5 (US) Width: 10.5m Retail: $3,500 USD IDD F35002406

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Balestra Rome Couture Vintage 1960s Ombre Silk Chiffon Dress
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By Thierry Mugler

Located in Miami, FL

Manfred Thierry Mugler was a French fashion designer who began his brand in the 1970s and was known for his avant-garde, architectural, hyperfeminine and theatrical approach. This i...

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By Aldo Cipullo

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

Aldo Cipullo 18k Yellow Gold & Lapis Pisces Pendant Zodiac Circa 1970s Vintage Here is your chance to purchase a beautiful and highly collectible designer zodiac pendant. Al...

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Thierry Mugler GLAM Jacket Crystal Black Velvet Rhinestone 1998
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By Thierry Mugler

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Antique 18ct Yellow Gold Stamped, Victorian Ruby & Diamond Five Stone Ring

Antique 18ct Yellow Gold Stamped, Victorian Ruby & Diamond Five Stone Ring

Located in Brighton, GB

Antique Ruby & Diamond Ring 18ct Gold Stamped Circa 1890 Makers Mark B H Introducing a stunning 18ct gold Victorian five-stone ring, featuring alternating natural rubies and d...

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Esoteric Jewelry For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact piece of esoteric jewelry you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Frequently made of gold, 18k gold and yellow gold, this item was constructed with great care. Our collection of these items for sale includes 45 vintage editions and 21 modern creations to choose from as well. If you’re looking for an item from our selection of esoteric jewelry from a specific time period, our collection is diverse and broad-ranging, and you’ll find at least one that dates back to the 18th Century while another version may have been produced as recently as the 21st Century. There have been many well-made iterations of the classic choice in our collection of esoteric jewelry over the years, but those made by Oscar Heyman, Bibi van der Velden and Cartier are often thought to be among the most beautiful. Take a look at an object in our assortment of esoteric jewelry featuring diamond from our inventory today to add the perfect touch to your look. A brilliant cut version of this piece has appeal, but there are also rose cut and cabochon versions for sale. Finding an option in this array of esoteric jewelry for sale for women should be easy, but there are 27 pieces available to browse for unisex as well as men, too.

How Much is a Esoteric Jewelry?

Prices for a piece of esoteric jewelry can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $59 and can go as high as $66,750, while this accessory, on average, fetches $3,100.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in. 

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.