Christian Louboutin x Maison Margiela Xrismarteen 100 Knee High Boots 36

Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.

Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”

Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.

Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.

Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988. 

Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.

The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.

While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.

“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”

John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.

Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.

The iconic red-soled shoes by Christian Louboutin (b. 1963) have made it onto almost every red carpet since the French designer opened his first boutique in Paris in 1992. His fantastical heels have gained attention and praise for their provocative heights and arching shapes, leading the designer to be nicknamed the “King of Stilettos.”

Since childhood, Louboutin was artistic; he began sketching shoes at the age of 10 and later studied drawing at the Académie d’Art Roederer. However, it was the regular visits to the Musée national des Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie, then in the Palais de la Porte Dorée, that inspired his interest in women’s shoes.

Growing up in the Paris neighborhood of the museum, he regularly spent weekends there and became fascinated by a sign asking women not to wear heels on account of the antique wooden floors. The severe arch of the heel on the sign and the violent red slash through it inspired him to think about shoes as something that could be dangerous and powerful in their allure. As he has said, “I wanted to create something that broke rules and made women feel confident and empowered.”

Breaking rules came naturally to Louboutin, who dropped out of school at the age of 16 and traveled to Egypt and India. When he returned to Paris in 1981, he had his mind set on shoe design and was hired by French fashion designer Charles Jourdan whose women’s shoe designs had been popular amongst the Paris elite since 1919. Louboutin later worked as a freelancer for such fashion houses as Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Roger Vivier.

When he went out on his own and opened his first boutique in the Galerie Véro-Dodat covered passage, Princess Caroline of Monaco became his first famous client. The now-revered red sole emerged with his third collection, when Louboutin noticed an assistant painting her nails bright red. He tried applying the polish to a sole and was enamored with the results. Soon, his glossy, red-bottomed heels were all the rage in the fashion world.

Today, Louboutin sells his wares in department stores and over 50 Louboutin boutiques across the world. Beyond shoes, he has also expanded into accessories, beauty lines and handbags, launching the Passage collection of bags in 2014, inspired by the location of his first boutique.

Conceptual pieces like his 2007 “Pumps,” now in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, have taken his stilettos to the extreme with a ballet-like en pointe silhouette balanced on a spiked heel. Louboutin is a go-to designer for celebrities, including Blake Lively, Mariah Carey, Sarah Jessica Parker and Jennifer Lopez (who has a song about the famed shoes), among hundreds of others. In February 2020, a retrospective of his career opened in the Palais de la Porte Dorée where it all began.

Find vintage Christian Louboutin shoes, sneakers, handbags and other items on 1stDibs.